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Climbing
"Trad" routes at Badile NE
climbable again!

Via Neverland and Via Peter Pan
During summer 2015 the two routes, closest to the north ridge, have been repeatet by Guido Lisignoli and Bernhard Falett. They have changed old pegs an added spit at the belays (where there was only one).

Difficulty: max. 6a+ (Neverland), 6b (Peter Pan). Necessary friends: one serie No 0,1 to 2. Abseiling along Northridge.

Photos: Marcel Schenk, Bergsteigerschule Pontresina.

Pizzo Badile, 3305 M

Around 36 routes lead up the north side of one the most famous peaks in the eastern alps.

  • Most popular
  • The popular classic: The North ridge (3-5a, 5-7hours climb time)
  • The legendary: Via Cassin (NE wall, 6a, 6-9 hours)
  • The modern: Another day in paradise (NE wall, 6b, 6-8 hours)
  • Sometimes climbed
  • Ringo Star (5c+, 8-10 hours, most popular route in the NW wall)
  • Linea Bianca (5c+, NE wall, rightside)
  • New routes on the Raindrop Pillar, NW wall
  • Via Il Silenzio degli Eroi (August 2006, S. Pizzagalli, A. Sampietro, D. Soldarini, 6c, 450 m)
  • Big Bäng (September 2008, Ch. Geronimi, A. Mariani, 6b+)
  • Microcosmo (2010, S. Pizzagalli, D. Soldarini, L. Martinelli, 6c+ obl., 11 SL)
  • Per Elisa (July 2010, D. Soldarini, L. Martinelli, 6a+ obl., 8 SL)

Caution!
All routes on Piz Badile are serious, alpine undertakings and require a large alpine climbing experience. For rapelling the north ridge, you have to be fast and very experienced. Otherwise, it is adviceable to descend to the south side, spend the night at the gianetti hut and walk back around via the Trubinasca Pass.

Pizzo Cengalo, 3369 m

Gaiser-Lehmann, NW Pillar, 5b, 6 - 8 hours. The only regularly repeated route on the north side. Difficult route finding, Rockfall danger by the approach.

Pizzo Trubinasca, 2918 m

5 routes on the north side, grades 5b-6b. seldom repeated.

Via Tumiturbi, July 2004 / September 2008, G. Lisignoli, G. Mazza, G. Fallett, 6b, 600 m

 

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